Fifth Week (23-27 April) Costume Store Review

In the fifth week, I have to start with a correction from last week's blog post:

the top bit of the flap shouldn't have been sew together and trimmed at the top of this except on the side where the western pocket is, because the seam allowance is used to sew the waistband to. So, I unpicked that and tacked it in place, like so:

unpicked

tacked

Then, I was finally able to move on to the decorative pointed straps on the flap.
First, I started by pinning the strap on,

 then stitched it in place.

strap tacked from front

Next, I folded the strap over along the stitch line, pressed it, trimmed the seam allowance, folded the back around, pressed it again, trimmed the seam allowance, turned it over, pressed it again, pinned and tacked in place like so, ready to be slip stitched:

strap tacked from inside

front of breeches flap with both straps tacked

Then, I moved on to the western pocket, which the steps were in this handout from Dexter:

First, I attached the pocket facing, with pocketing attached, right side facing the right side of the flap of the breeches, then pressed, trimmed seam allowances, and flipped the pocketing up like so:

Then I turned it around and pressed it down:

Next, I attached the other piece of pocket facing with pocketing attached to the corresponding place on the waistband:

Then I pulled the waistband up, pocketing down, and trimmed then pressed the seam allowance up to be tucked under the backing and be hidden when the backing is slip-stitched down:

 After that, I sewed the pocket pieces wrong sides together and trimmed the seam allowance:

Then flipped the pocket around so that the seams stuck inside the pocket, pressed it, and top stitched around so that the seams were trapped inside the pocket.

Here is the finished pocket from the front and back:

front

back

The next step was sewing up the outside and inside leg seams and the crotch seam as well, and then over locking the side seams, although i feel i should have trimmed the seam allowance and overlocked it before I sewed all the seams up, because it was actually pretty difficult to do once they were sewn together due to the thickness of the fabric, and I couldn't separate them well enough so the seams are overlocked together. This is as far as I got before we started on the blouse.

Sewn side seams

Sewn crotch seam

Inside leg seams

breaches with inside and outside leg seams sewn up and turned around

overlocked side seams